Paris,
Day after day, from the courtyard, I observe the life and work of Atelier Renard's craftsmen. I'm not the only one: each new piece of work arouses excitement and admiration of all the plants in the yard. Yet, I have the best place: my branches are right in front of the workbench, I can see everything through the bay window.
We are talking about a unique know-how, passed down secretly from generation to generation, jealously guarded. I'll tell you something: I have my own idea about this secret. In my opinion, it lies in the intelligence of the hands of its craftsmen. If you can remain discreet, I invite you to observe with me, and you will soon understand what makes me say that.
Look at these skillful hands manipulating the leather, shaping it into bags, wallets and other objects. Alternately supple as reeds or firm as pliers, the palms turn, open and close. With their fingertips, the hands grasp, smooth, refine, press, sew and caress the beloved leather with tenderness. Ah, if only I had hands! My supple branches, my evergreen leaves and my flowers in perfect rosettes, certainly elegant, yet so impractical.
A fully hand-stitched bag is a meticulous process that requires not only hands, but also time. A lot of time. To create a single item, the hands will have to repeat the same gestures countless times to turn these pieces of leather into a beautiful bag of discreet luxury, or a wallet that will be noticed.
Let me tell you about the thousand and one small steps involved in making a bag at Atelier Renard, the series of gestures performed each time by these hands, with astonishing precision and gentleness.
First of all, the expert hands cut out the different leathers, exterior, interior and interfacing. Here everything is made of leather, including the invisible parts. The cut is different depending on whether the bag will be soft or saddler style (structured). This is an essential phase of the work. The leather must be firm and flawless. The quality of the work depends on it.
After the cutting, comes the splitting. This involves thinning the leather using a specific machine! Whether it is a body, a gusset, a lining, a pocket, a handle... Each piece has its own thickness.
After a good coffee, it is time to prepare, glue and carve out. The interiors with the different pockets are made according to the customer's wishes.
When all this work is completed, the bag can be assembled.
If it is saddler style, it will be assembled right side out so that it can be stitched by hand. Having observed it frequently, I will tell you in detail what true saddler know-how is about.
If it is turned inside out - we also talk about a "soft" bag - it will be assembled upside down with a leather strand that will ingeniously make the link between the sides and the gussets. The thumbs then push in the corners and roll the leather, without damaging the sides, until it is completely turned inside out.
It is a real birth.
It is a pure joy to see these hands at work, like an endless dance, to the sound of the different tools, hammers, cutters, press, and even if you listen carefully, the beeswax sliding on the linen thread.
